Friday, March 30, 2012

Leaky MPV Backwash Port

Is there water leaking from the backwash/waste port on your pool filter valve? 

If so, it is likely that you have a tear or a partially broken spider gasket
This gasket is inside your pool valve and is what forms the seal between each port and the diverter plate. 
Once there is a break in the seal water can leak into the surrounding ports, usually one will not notice until water leaks into the backwash or waste port as it is usually the only open/visible port. 
These gaskets are used in both 'side mount' and 'top mount' Multi-Port Valves or MPV's and they are found in the valves used on sand and DE filters. 
Variations, some MPV manufactures have a separate Spider Gasket/Diverter assembly where as others have the Spider gasket or similar seal molded into the diverter [See Below].


Why do spider gaskets break?

Typically with age, over or under use these gaskets will degrade require a replacement. 
If you own a sand filter & are starting to change spider gaskets more often, it is likely you have larger problem associated with the laterals on the stand pipe. The laterals are the porous fingers on the bottom of the pipe running into the sand. Even small holes in the lateral will allow sand to enter the MPV body & as you continue using the valve sand will begin to damage the gasket. 

How to replace a spider gasket?
Spider gasket replacement for Multiport Backwash Valves

1. Stop pump and release all pressure from system.
2. Place the selector handle at the "winterize" position ( this lifts the plug off the seat).
3. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the cover to the valve body.
Remove the cover assembly.
4. Remove the old gasket from the valve body.
5. Make sure that the gasket groove is free of water, grease, oils, debris and parts of the old gasket. Use alcohol to degrease.
6. NOTICE: Once this step is started, continue through Step 10 without interruption.
Using Loctite® 401, 403 and 416 apply glue sparingly (a bead about 1/16" wide)
to the bottom only (not the sides) of the spider groove in the valve body.
The glue lines must be continuous and intersect at the intersections of the grooves.
7. Insert the new gasket into the groove with the rounded bead up.
Press the gasket firmly into all groove areas to seat the new gasket evenly.
8. Align the tab on the cover assembly with pin on the valve body, fastening it with the bolts and nuts removed in Step 3. Tighten all bolts evenly.
9. Depress the valve handle and rotate it to the closest standard position (FILTER or RINSE), being careful not to rub the plug on the new gasket. Release the handle, allowing the plug to hold the gasket in place while curing.
10. Minimum cure time is 2 hours. Curing for 24 hours is recommended for full strength.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Venturi Outlet-Return Fittings

We have started to offer one of the hottest new products on the market!
Infusion Pool Products Venturi Pool Inlet/Return Fittings called V-Fittings.

The Video is all you need to watch, but read on for more information.


  • Reduce Energy Costs
  • Extend Your Swim Season
  • Benefit from Cleaner, Healthier Water
  • Maximize Solar Cover Performance
  • Sweep debris towards the main drain
  • Target Dead Spots, Steps, and Benches
  • Create an Easier To Service Water Quality
  • Compliments Energy Efficiency Regulations Nationwide
  • Enjoy River Flow and Fountain Features
  • Will Pay for Itself and Keep Paying You Back

  • V-Fittings’ directional increased flow disrupts sediment from side walls and floor of pool increasing effectiveness of chemicals and swimming pool filters. The installation of Infusion's venturi return fittings will save time, money and energy associated with operating and servicing swimming pools while enhancing water quality through increased circulation and improved chemical disbursement.

    Deep Heat

    V-Fittings increase velocity of water being returned to the pool, by the pool's circulation system, which creates a draw of warmer surface water through strategically placed louvers within the surrounding body. The result is a greater volume of surface water being dispersed to the floor of the pool-deep heating while maximizing circulation. This deep heating feature highly compliments the effectiveness of solar pool covers and solar systems.

    Advanced Skimming with River Flow and Fountain Features

    V-Fittings’ river flow and fountain features create a soothing, more enjoyable environment while maximizing pool skimmer performance. Easily adjustable, V-Fittings can be aimed towards the surface of the pool, providing a cooling effect, on hot summer days.

    Save on Chemical and Energy Costs

    The installation of V-Fittings provides energy savings through reduced circulating pump and pool heater operating times. Improved directional circulation evenly disperses chemicals, eliminating algae buildup, reducing various chemical uses and evaporation.

    Our Environmental Focus - Infusion Green Systems

    Energy consumption regulations throughout the country have recently focused on pool and spa plumbing configurations and the energy efficiency of circulation equipment. Advancements in product designs, along with new innovative solutions, are having a profound effect on the environment by reducing greenhouse gasses.
    The benefits of more efficient products and pool designs include greater heat and chemical savings from increased circulation while reducing electrical consumption. Recent bills addressing residential swimming pool energy standards, found in California Title 20 Regulations, have been mandated in Texas, Nevada, Michigan, New Jersey, and Washington with many other states currently under review.
    Infusion’s replacement and new construction V-Fittings enhance the flow of water (which has been adversely affected by energy efficiency standards nationwide), drastically improving circulation while deep heating!

    Saturday, March 24, 2012

    Spa Hi Limits

    Spa Hi Limit Sensor/Switch

    All spas will have a Hi Limit switch or sensor of some sort. This device is a safety device which acts as the thermal protection for your spa. These sensors are designed to prevent the heater element from burning out as well as preventing the spas water from getting too hot. 
    Most spa's will not let bathers set the temperature above the manufactures set point (Usually +/-108°F). Hi Limits usually have the high temperature threshold set between 118-121°F. Therefore an error or unusual event must occur leading to the sensor tripping. 
    Usually poor water flow. When the water heater's temperature rises too quickly due to insufficient water flow through the heater. Other factors such as damage to the sensor, lose of calibration etc.. can cause issues with Hi Limits. 
    Usually the sensor/switch will have failed & these switches do fail once in a while. When they do your spa will cease to function and shut down or default to a maintenance program.

    IMPORTANT - This is a safety device! If it is found to be out of calibration, do not attempt to perform a field adjustment! Replace bad hi limit with a new one.

    Mechanical Hi Limit

    Older style Hi Limit Sensors  feature a red push to reset button. These models are mostly found on spa controls which use air buttons, dial thermostats or are time clock activated. 
    If these was an event which wasn't related to equipment failure the hi limit switch can be reset, once reset the spa will function as normal but if it trips again there are other more significant problems with your spa.
    Typically these switches have a copper bulb & capillary attached to the main switch body. These Hi Limits are either installed in a dry well or groove tube on/or immediately before the heater.

    Digital Hi Limit

    Modern digital spas with circuit boards & digital control panels typically have digital/electronic temperature sensors and Hi Limits. Functionally they are the same as the mechanical units, the probes use resistance to measure temperature. Once the maximum/ upper safe temperature limit is reached the sensor will shut the spa down or show an error code on the control panel, 'HL' or 'OH' error codes are the most common but there are others. See our error code post for more information.
    These sensors plug directly into the circuit board. Note - there are a variety of plug types and bulb sizes it is important to replace your sensor with the correct one, be sure to match plug type, sensor length, bulb length & diameter.

    Other Hi Limit Styles

    There are many other types of Hi Limits used in the pool & spa industry. All functionally the same, preventing over heating or injury from water too hot.

    Thermodisc (Surface Mount)

    Typically found in older Hayward, Hydro-Quip, Raypak, Pentair Purex,  Sundance electric heaters among others.

    Pentair gas heater Surface mount Hi Limit


    Typically found in Gecko S & M Class Spa Packs.

    Split Nuts?

    Need to replace a Pump or Heater union nut? 

    Many people have a hard time figuring out how to re-plumb or replace broken pump or heater union nuts.


    The heaters flared ends prevent one from taking the nut off of the heater tube. Replacing the whole heater because of a broken nut makes no sense. A split nut is the answer, simply cut/remove the old nut. Clamp either side of the split nut over the heater tube and fasten the screws - new nut! 
    How to choose the right size nut?

    Heater split nuts come in 3 sizes - 1.5”, 2” & 2.5”
    The dimensions of each split nut only refer to the heater tube ID not to any measurement taken from the nut itself or from the OD of the heater tube.
    There is some slight variance between companies that make heater split nuts but if one was to measure by the flange (not thread) ID they split nuts should be like this…
    • 1.5” Heater split nut has a flange ID of 1-15/16” thread ID 2-3/8"
    • 2” Heater split nuts have a flange ID of 2-5/16” thread ID 3"
    • 2.5” Heater split nuts have a flange ID of 3-1/16” thread ID 3-5/8"

     Heater Union Split Nut


    Usually the reason you'll not be able to remove a solid union nut is the pump tail piece flange prevents removing the nut. 
    Until this nut became available the only option was to cut the tail piece off and glue in a new one. With a split nut slide the nut back away from the pump and install the split nut in front. 
    Pump union split nuts only come in two sizes, 1.5", 2" & 2.5" 
    The dimensions of each split nut only refers to the pump suction or discharge plumbing ID not to any measurements taken from the nut itself or from the OD of pump threads.

    • 1.5” Pump split nut has a flange ID of 2-3/16” thread ID 2.5"
    • 2” Pump split nuts have a flange ID of 2-11/16” thread ID 3"
    • 2.5” Pump split nuts have a flange ID of 3-1/4thread ID 3-5/8"

    Pump Union Split Nuts

    Saturday, March 10, 2012

    Mechanical Spa Thermostats

    Spa Thermostats

    Many spas have mechanical thermostats.
    Unlike digital or electronic thermostats mechanical thermostats utilize a copper sensor bulb attached to the thermostat body with a copper capillary to measure temperature. The body of the thermostat has rotating dial either located either the side or the top of the unit. This dial is used to raise or lower water temperature to a desired level.
    Spas with mechanical thermostats are typically older models & replacing the thermostat can be difficult because the part numbers on an older thermostat may not match up with modern replacements options.  We offer a wide selection of thermostats for all makes of spas here.
    If one cannot cross reference any part numbers when trying to replace your thermostat it is important to match up 3 key measurements, capillary length, bulb length & diameter. [see below]

    Most spa thermostats are Single Pole (SP) rated at 25 amps with temperature range of 70°F-107°F. 

    Here are some commonly found thermostats: 

    275-1770-00    1/4"x3.4" Bulb, 22" Capillary, DPDT

    275-2535-08    1/4" Bulb, 48" Capillary
    275-2568-00    1/4"
    Bulb, 6" Capillary, w/short leads
    275-2568-01    5/16"
    Bulb, 6" Capillary, w/short leads

    275-2720-00    1/4"x3.5" Bulb, 60"
    275-2720-01    5/16" Bulb, 60" Capillary 
    275-2950-00    5/16"x2.5"
    Bulb, 6" Capillary

    275-3107-00    12" Capillary
    275-3123-00    1/4"x
    3.4" Bulb, 12" Capillary, Replacement for Cotherm GTLU0025
    275-3123-01    5/16"x3.7" B
    , 12" Cap, Replaces Cotherm GTLU0024 & Brett 34-0121A
    275-3124-00    1/4"x3.7" B,
    36" Cap, Replacement for Cotherm GTLU0031
    275-3124-01    5/16"x4" B, 36" Cap

    275-3127-01    5/16"x3.4" Bulb, 36" Capillary, Replacement for Cotherm GTLU3010
    275-3136-00    5/16"x6"
    Bulb, 48" Capillary, Used in Ramco ST-131
    275-3142-00    5/16"x2.5"
    Bulb, 18" Capillary, Replacement for Cotherm GTLU0034
    275-3183-00    5/16"x4"
    Bulb, 48" Capillary, Replacement for Cotherm GTLU0026
    275-3263-00    5/16"x3"
    B, 18" Cap, Replaces Hydroquip 3263-00 Cotherm GTLU0016

    275-3317-02    5/16" Bulb, 48" Capillary, Found in Patrol & Aquaset
    275-3372-00    2.75" - 3.25" Bulbs, Replaces Coates


    The sensor bulb is typically inserted into a thermowell, which is a protective fitting that allows the bulb to read the water temperature through the wall of the thermowell with out getting wet. Thermowells come in many shapes and sizes (90° PVC fittings, copper test tube looking fittings & More).
    Thermowells are typically found in the foot-well of the spa or somewhere in the suction plumbing between the suction fitting and heater.
    The thermowell must never be located after the heater. 
    A mechanical Hi limit switch can look like these thermostats & the Hi Limit is attached to the heater - do not confuse the two.

    Plumbing PVC Thermowell

    Stainless Thermowell

    Wall Mount Thermowell